Sports Style Rock Climbing in American Fork

Tons of fun sport climbing in American Fork today.  Now sport climbing is not exactly my forte, especially on polished limestone, but I always try to get out to AF at least once a season.  I figure it's good for my head.  Or at least, it helps me appreciate all the other places I climb that much more.

We went up to the Billboard today, which was a bit of a hike, especially in flip flops.  And ESPECIALLY if you have huge blisters on the bottoms of your feet, because you read a book about barefoot running the day before and decided to give it a shot.  (Sidenote - barefoot running might be a cool idea, but 3 miles on hot concrete and asphalt is probably not the best way to break into the sport.)

Anyway, it was nothing a little (or a lot) of climbing tape couldn't fix, and I proceed to fall off a bunch of the coolest routes in AF.  The Billboard really is a sweet crag, if you don't mind a bit of a walk.

I recommend going on a day when you find yourself without blisters.

Here's Phunk working on one of the 12's up there.  Don't remember the name.

City of Rocks with Team Under Cover Brother

We ventured up to the City Of Rocks in Idaho this weekend to escape the heat in the valley.  Everything in Idaho seems a bit more chill, including the weather, so it was a good call.  And being only 2.5 hours from SLC, even the drive to the city seems chill.  It's a fun place.

Upon arrival, we hooked up with a crew that I'm dubbing Team Under Cover Brother.  They're strong, but you'd never know it by the way they act.  It was wild to hang out with these guys for the weekend, as they casually onsighted 5.12 (bolted and gear lines, it didn't seem to matter.) 

I think the coolest part of the weekend was the attitude.  Everyone was just having fun, heckling (my favorite line of the weekend: pull like you want to get to the top!)  being equal parts jerk and cheerleader.  Half of em were running on 2 hours sleep, the other half on beer, and the other half on super strict performance diets.  So it was a diverse crowd, but they were psyched.  

I didn't hear a single complaint, even as people were pulling holds off climbs and chucking them into the bushes, or being cooerced into doing another lap for the camera.

At one point, we found a roof crack that had possibly seen an ascent, though we weren't sure.  It looked impossible - a good hand jam half way up, but then the crack slammed shut for like 4 feet, only to open up to tips.  And it was at least 50 degrees overhanging.  Impossible.  But I watched Pete rack up, get psyched, and all of a sudden he had figured out the move.  It didn't go, yet, but it will.  Crazy how "possible" can be so subjective.  

The pic is Mr. Strappe onsighting just another 5.12 roof crack.  

New Indian Creek Guidebook

I figured this was worth coming out of retirement for - I got this book in the mail a few weeks back - it's the long awaited second edition of the Indian Creek guidebook.  Figured I shouldn't post a picture of it till it hit book stores, so it should probably be out by now.  Anyhow, when you get your copy, be sure to check the photo credit for the cover.  Cause it says my name.  That's right baby.  

I was going to send an autographed copy to Andy Burr, but they're only giving me a few copies.  Sorry Andy.