Dave Turner opens new grade VII in Patagonia, solo.
Valley regular Dave Turner finished his new grade VII solo in Patagonia, solo. It's the first time a new grade VII route has been soloed, in alpine style. Wow.
(Routes are given roman numeral grades based on the length of times they take to complete. A grade I would just be a single pitch, grade II would be a few pitches, grade III would be most of the day, grade IV is a very long day, grade V is multi day, grade VI is multiple nights (most El Cap Routes) and a grade VII is a grade VI climb with an expedition style approach, and much more commitment. Phew that was a big parenthetical.)
The new route's called Taste The Paine, and it goes up the wall in the picture. Unbelievable feat of suffering and badassry. Here's the typically understated Dave Turner, posting on Supertopo.com:
"wow! so much has happened for me in the last two months. i have fufilled my climbing dream of over six years a few days ago. standing on the top of cerro escudo in the torres del paine region of southern patagonia was anything but sane. i opened a 1,200 meter (4,000ft) overhanging big wall route in some of the worst weather i have ever experienced! i was on the wall for a total of 34 continous days, saying screw fixed ropes and siege style climbing, and went for it in pure alpine style continously moving the camp up as i went. showing up with my one haul line and two 70m lead lines might have been a bit crazy, but thats my way. the how is as important as the what. the climb was very difficult on all aspects, gear got thrashed, ropes got cut, rocks came through the ledge, whippers were logged, screamers blown, and of course the weather, oh the weather! i got absolutly pummeled by the patagonian storms! there is so much i want to talk about, but first i need to fill my stomach with real food, eat lots of ice cream, and cut this hair! i will be back to fill in a few details."
That should inspire us all. Read the thread for a more detailed account of the ascent:
Click here for the full thread.
(Routes are given roman numeral grades based on the length of times they take to complete. A grade I would just be a single pitch, grade II would be a few pitches, grade III would be most of the day, grade IV is a very long day, grade V is multi day, grade VI is multiple nights (most El Cap Routes) and a grade VII is a grade VI climb with an expedition style approach, and much more commitment. Phew that was a big parenthetical.)
The new route's called Taste The Paine, and it goes up the wall in the picture. Unbelievable feat of suffering and badassry. Here's the typically understated Dave Turner, posting on Supertopo.com:
"wow! so much has happened for me in the last two months. i have fufilled my climbing dream of over six years a few days ago. standing on the top of cerro escudo in the torres del paine region of southern patagonia was anything but sane. i opened a 1,200 meter (4,000ft) overhanging big wall route in some of the worst weather i have ever experienced! i was on the wall for a total of 34 continous days, saying screw fixed ropes and siege style climbing, and went for it in pure alpine style continously moving the camp up as i went. showing up with my one haul line and two 70m lead lines might have been a bit crazy, but thats my way. the how is as important as the what. the climb was very difficult on all aspects, gear got thrashed, ropes got cut, rocks came through the ledge, whippers were logged, screamers blown, and of course the weather, oh the weather! i got absolutly pummeled by the patagonian storms! there is so much i want to talk about, but first i need to fill my stomach with real food, eat lots of ice cream, and cut this hair! i will be back to fill in a few details."
That should inspire us all. Read the thread for a more detailed account of the ascent:
Click here for the full thread.
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home